16, 17 Aug

> 16/8/2012
> Position Neiafu, Vavau, Tonga
> Spent the morning exploring the town - not that there is much to explore.
> There is a big difference between Tonga and the French Polynesian islands -
> French Polynesia has strong French ties and all the social benefits of
> France, the roads are maintained and the people look more prosperous - Tonga
> is definitely third world the roads are in dis-repair and the people not so
> prosperous looking, but are very friendly.
> In the afternoon, Rob and I had arranged for a local fisherman, Joan - a
> bloke - to take us to Mariner's and Swallow caves. We were picked up from
> the quay where we are tied up - nice and convenient - in one of the small
> local fishing boats. Rob had to sit up front with his head sticking out of
> the hatch in the cabin top. Joan steered more by feel than by sight - the
> cabin top obscured the view forward. To check where he was going he would
> duck his head around the side of the cabin top either side. With 25horses on
> the back we made good time. As we left the quay the clouds were trying to
> hide the sun, but fortunately by the time we got to Mariner's Cave the sun
> had won. Finding the cave needed local knowledge. There is no obvious cave
> above the surface only a dark pack under the water. Well in for a penny in
> for a pound - over the side with snorkel and goggles and into the dark patch
> we swam. We were lucky that the tide was out so the underwater swim was not
> too deep and not too long. The trick is to swim upside down so that you can
> see the roof of the tunnel and tell when you can surface again. I found I
> got a little disorientated and imagined I was heading deeper and deeper so I
> turned over and swam on until I felt clear. Going in was I was fine coming
> out again I came up a little too soon and banged my leg on the top ledge as
> I surfaced. Inside the cave was relatively small with a high roof - small
> stalactites hanging from the roof - no stalagmites though. The sun shining
> through the clear blue water created a glow in the cave - what a magnificent
> sight. Not too many fish or coral inside. The story goes that Will Mariner
> found the cave after he had speared a turtle that dived down and swam into
> the cave. He followed and found that there was air and a refuge in side. He
> apparently lived there for some time without telling anybody about it.
> Then on to Swallow Cave. A much larger cave that can be entered by boat. Its
> name comes from the Swallow bats that live there. The roof is covered with
> these bats. They have a way out through a hole in the roof. Unfortunately
> the graffiti artists have been to work and the walls are covered with
> scrawling - each trying to prove a point by going higher. There certainly
> have been some real gymnastics for some.
> After Swallow cave we were taken to Clam reef. The coral was disappointing
> in that a lot was dead and the colours very muted. The fish, however, were
> coloureful and though small plenty of them. I found the water a bit cool so
> didn't stay in as long as I would have liked.
> Back to the boat with sore calves - it has been a long time since I have
> used flippers.
> 17/8/2012
> Position Neiafu, Vavau, Tonga
> Cleared out - Immigration, Harbour Master, Customs. What a palaver. Fueled
> up and got the provisions we need. All set to leave first thing tomorrow
> morning.
>
> Cheers
>
> Chris
>
>