Arrived in Fortaleza, Brazil (4 degrees South, 39 degrees West) Thursday
night 17 May after having made a detour to miss Doc's Rocks (Atol das
Rocas). So now about 6 days behind Chris's schedule which he has finally
agreed was a bit optimistic. Apart from being a bit slower than anticipated
overall we have done well on this leg of the journey.
We left St Helena on morning of the 30 April after having a great time
there. Great to have a soaking fresh water shower, have clean salt free
clothes to put on. Enjoyed the meals and beers at Ann's Place.
Good fry up breakfast with chips. All the thinks we cant cook on the boat.
We were able to see all the places we had planned to see plus more. Joyce
befriended one of the ladies at customs, Rosemond, who offered to take us on
a trip around the Island in her car. It was fantastic to have all her local
knowledge to help us and we saw a lot
more than we expected. As it was a weekend we had a problem getting
diesel and so stayed an extra day. On the Sunday Chris and I went for a walk
from Jamestown to the foot of the heart shaped waterfall, about a 5 mile
loop. This plus the climb up the 699 steps made sure I was quite stiff that
evening. Enjoyed a beer at Donny's Place on the seafront. The RMS ST Helena
had docked that afternoon while we were on our walk. It seemed the whole
town had come down to the front for the occasion. Interesting watching the
people and the containers of supplies being ferried by pontoon from the ship
to the landing.
After loading the diesel on Monday morning in calm weather we weighed
anchor. Except for anchoring Discovery in the Hout Bay bay for the Opening
Cruse off the breakwater this was the first time I had been involved in
laying or weighing an anchor and considering the depth in St Helena of 20
meters and the anchor chain and rope we laid of 80 meters it was done with
no hiccups. We had a good view of the RMS St Helena departing back to Cape
Town while we doing this. However to add to our woes George noticed while
lifting the anchor that the winch was not bolted on tightly. We will be
installing a bracket in Fortaleza to compensate for this. Also the gearbox
on the port sail drive started to make a bad noise which got worse. Some
water was also seeping into the bilge below Chris's cabin where the port
engine and sail drive are situated and so after cleaning it out and
inspecting what was happening down there we decided not to use it. If the
seals go we would have more than quite a big problem. Chris and the owner
are sorting out what needs to be done. Justine and Rod Turner-Smith have
been a great help finding out and letting us know what facilities are
available where. At first we thought we would have to go to Trinidad but it
seems that everything we need should be available at Prickly Bay in Granada,
our original port of call in the Caribbean but fixing it will most probably
require us to spend an extra 4 days there. None of the crew seems to be
complaining. While we are in Fortaleza, Chris and the owner will have a
better opportunity to decide what to do as trying to sort things out over
the satphone is not easy. Having two motors, at least we are in no imminent
danger as most yachts have only one engine anyway. However going through the
Panama Chanel with only one engine may be difficult. Theoretically all boats
going through must be able to maintain 8 knots and the turbulents in the
locks need strong engines not only while they are filling and emptying but
also when the big ships you are sharing the lock with start their engines to
exit the lock.
After a few days out we started to get into the routine of watches again.
The mid South Atlantic Ocean is a lonely place. Days would go by with out
seeing a ship, a bird or anything. Just a circle of water around the boat
which is pointed in the way we want to go. Today looks just like yesterday
and tomorrow will also look the same. The moon was waning so the nights got
darker and darker and the watches seemed to take longer and longer. The wind
dropped at times and we had to use the motor most of those days. If any one
sees Jeremy Nel, tell him he was right. But also tell him that seeing he
went round the Horn he should contact us about going through the Panama
Chanel with us and then he can say he has been round both the south and
north of South America. I am sure I can get him a good deal with the
skipper.
Then one day we woke up and the wind had started to pick up, the current was
running with us and the cat was under sail on its way again at a good rate
of knots. The birds came back even landing on the boat at night for a rest;
we started to see ships again, the flying fish were jumping. Soon the
dolphins gave us a show and even a
humpback whale swam under the cat. We were nearing land again. We
are still eating well and had our last fresh steak meal only a few days ago.
The fresh meat has definitely lasted well. Joyce has kept us guessing and
conjured up some super culinary delights, even jelly and custard to go with
the tined fruit. Our beer stocks and other essentials are starting to run
low and we will be replenishing our supplier in Fortaleza.
The mooring at Fortaleza is part of a snazzy hotel with a big swimming pool
and other facilities. Last time Chris was here they had a good all you can
eat buffet which is still the case but a bit more expensive now at R160
each. Enjoyed all the salads and desserts! Went into the ´city`on Friday and
did the immigration and customs which took all morning after which we had a
drink at the very smart local yacht club. Then got our supplies in a 24 hour
big local Supermarket.
Had a stroll and a meal on the promanade which is like Sea Point with big
high rise blocks of flats but five times as long with a great beach, volly
ball courts, a big craft market and lots of cafes and restururants. Spent
this morning doing our running repairs, filling up with diesel and water and
now in town relaxing. We will be on our way to Trinadad early Sunday
morning.
Rob
